Sewing Basics

Whenever I tell somebody that I know how to make my own clothes there is a common response I always hear. I’ve noticed that the first thing almost everyone says to me is that, “I don’t even know how to sew a button.” In this post I’ll go over a couple of basic hand sewing techniques.

Contrary to what you might think, iit’s actually pretty easy! Also, sewing and fixing up your own clothing is a great way to keep them out of landfills. Especially considering we throw out a significant amount already. This is an easy task to help you reach your sustainability goals.

In 2017 8% of all municipal solid waste landfilled in the U.S. was textiles, or 11.2 million tons.

Let’s get to work 🙂

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Watch the full YouTube video below for the full tutorial:

Slip Stitch Technique

This stitch is probably one of the most versatile and basic hand sewing techniques. In my opinion, ts most useful methods is to sew up ripped seams.

To start out, thread your needle and knot one end of the thread.

Next, put the needle in the crease of the seam at the back of the garment where the rip starts. Pull the needle through to the front so that the knot is at the back in the seam crease.

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In order to continue to close up the seam take the needle and put it in the other side of the seam’s creased edge directly across from where the thread came out. Slip the needle behind the crease for about 1/16″-1/8″. Then, push it outside again and pull the thread through.

Again, put the needle in the other side directly across from where the thread came out and pull it through the crease, like done previously. Continue this process until you’ve made your way through the entire ripped portion of the seam.

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Once you get to the end of the rip, go back down the other way towards where you started. Continue the same slip stitch process to reinforce the seam and close up any spots you might have missed.

When you get back to your start position pull the needle and thread through the back and knot it off to finish the stitch.

Here is an example of a skirt I fixed up for a client

Button Hand Sewing Techniques

The next set of hand sewing techniques are for button fastening. I will go over a few different techniques for different common types of buttons

To start all of these techniques thread your needle and knot with both ends of the thread knotted together. For After this pull the need and thread through the back of the fabric in the spot where the button will be placed.

2-Hole Button

Of course this method is used for buttons with 2 holes.

Start off by pulling the needle through one of the holes in the button from back to front. Next put the thread through the front of the other hole and pull through from front to back through the fabric.

Go back through the first hole from front to back and repeat this process a few times until the button is sturdy and reinforced through the fabric.

Lastly, make sure you end with the thread at the back of the fabric. Knot off the thread to finish it off.

4-Hole Button – Option 1 – Parallel Stitch Lines

This method is for buttons with 4 holes and is sewn in a way so that the thread lines run parallel to each other.

In order to start this method put the needle through one of the holes in the button, pulling through from back to front. Next, put the thread through the front of the adjacent hole and pull through from front to back. Repeat this process a few times. Once this set feels secure, make sure the needle is pulled through to the back. Restart the process with the other 2 holes until the button is sturdy and reinforced.

Again, make sure to end with the thread at the back of the fabric and knot it off to finish.

4-Hole Button – Option 2 – Crossed Stitch Lines

This second 4 hole button method is stitched in a way so that the thread lines create and “X” shape.

Start this technique like the previous except using the diagonal hole from the first hole instead of the adjacent hole. Continue the process for the first set of holes and then repeat this process with the second set of holes.

As usual end with the thread at the back of the fabric and knot off the thread to finish it off.

Jacket Button Technique

This technique is used for jackets so that there is extra give in the button to make room for the added fabric behind the button once it’s enclosed.

For this technique you can follow the process for one of the previous techniques depending on your chosen button or style. The only thing you will do differently is to place another needle or pin flat over the button. Sew the button on with the pin/needle resting on top of the button and under the thread.

This will allow for added ease behind the button for the thicker jacket/coat fabric.

Continue sewing as you would a regular button and then just slip the pin/needle out when finished

Shank Button

Now a shank button doesn’t have holes because it has a loop (shank) at the back. These buttons tend to be half dome shaped. This button is typically used for jackets and coats. Although you don’t need to sew with the added ease because the shank at the back does that itself.

Pull the needle through the back of the fabric where the button should be and then through the shank hole. Place the button close to the fabric. Put the needle back through the fabric from front to back again to attach the button and continue this process until the button is secure.

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I hope these basic hand sewing techniques help you fix up your own clothing at home. Let me know if you have any questions or need any help in the comments!