January 26, 2020

Basic Sewing Skills – Seam and Edge Finishes

Whenever you’re sewing you usually can’t just leave the cut fabric edges raw, chances are it will fray if it’s a woven or roll if it’s knit (for more on this see my fabric types post here).

So here are some examples of basic edge finishes to help you with your next project!

See the full video below on how to do each of these edge finishes:

Zig Zag Stitch

The zig zag stitch is probably the easiest edge finish to use for at home projects. All home sewing machines have this setting. It’s not ideal for fabric that frays a lot or very slippery fabrics, but it will still get the job done.

Clean Finish

Clean finished edges are also very easy to do with any sewing machine since you just need a straight stitch. You simply just are doing a baby hem on the edges of the fabric so that they don’t fray. If you have a fabric that frays a lot or is slippery and can’t use the zig zag stitch, this will be the next best option.

All you need to do is fold the edfe under about 1/8″ and stitch it down.

Sewing Basics – Seam and Edge Finishes – Zig Zag Stitch and Clean Finish Edge

French Seam

A French seam is for sheer fabrics. These seams are enclosed so it looks nice from the outside. This is a seam that essentially sewn twice so any part that would fray is inside of the enclosed seam allowance.

  • The first step is to sew the seam at 1/4″ (for 1/2″ seam allowances) with wrong sides together (opposite than usual).
  • Next cut the seam allowance in half, close to the seam
  • After that press the seam open and then fold it over so that it is right sides together and the seam allowance you just sewed is between the fabric
  • Press it
  • Then sew this 1/4″ in encloses the seam allowance inside
Sewing Basics – Seam and Edge Finishes – French Seam

Flat Fell Seam

Flat Felled Seams are also enclosed seams but they are flat, and stitched down so you can see the extra row of stitching on the outside. These are the types of seams that are used on denim, take a look at one of your pairs of jeans.

  • First, just like the French seam, sew a seam with wrong sides together (full 1/2″ seam allowance this time)
  • Press it open
  • Next cut on of the sides of the seam allowance in half
  • Now take the longer seam allowance side the you didn’t cut and fold it over the cut, shorter, seam allowance. Press it like this
  • Next flip the seam allowance over so that open portion of the folded over edge is pressed down to the fabric
  • After that stitch down over that edge to attach it to the fabric, this way there are 2 rows of stitching
Sewing Basics – Seam and Edge Finishes – Flat Fell Seam

**The French and Flat Fell Seams are difficult to alter though because of the way the seam allowances are trimmed and then enclosed.

Serger Stitch

This stitch requires a serger machine. This is the type of edge finish that is used most in the industry so you’ll find most of your clothing with this type of finish inside. This stitch is also used to sew seams with stretchy fabric because it doesn’t restrict the fabric from stretching like regular sewing stitches would.

Sewing Basics – Seam and Edge Finishes – Serged Edge

Good luck with your project and let me know if you have any questions or need any help in the comments!

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Kelly Sizler
Kelly Sizler

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